From Rodney Dickman's Fiero website. Click HERE and order the kit for the "87-88 motor". You may want to get the gaskets too. "The price is right and the shipping is cheap too." Thanks Rodney!! --Doug
For info on how to do the rebuild see below !! The kit has the small round white parts you will need to replace.
------See the UPDATE below as well !!------
Symptom: When attempting to turn-on, there’s a lot of whining, then you don’t always manage to get it up, at least not all the way, conversely, after it’s been up and shining then it’s turned-off, it goes down with a bang and the whining continues after it’s tucked back in it’s resting place. Sounds familiar ?……
This has never happened to me…..but a friend of mine had this problem and this is what I…I mean he did to cure it.
After removing the the Headlamp Motor from
the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’
size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear
which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that
it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws
‘B’out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch,
at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the
Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft,
but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.
The Gear is primarily comprised of three parts, the Plastic section carries the Gear Teeth and forms part of the Hub. The second part is a Die-cast assembly with an integral Shaft, and the third part is the substance that fills the space between the Die-cast ‘Clover Leaf’ and the correspondingly shaped but larger cavity inside the Plastic Hub.
Inside mine I found a granular filling not unlike Cane Sugar Crystals, both in color and form. I’m guessing that the original condition of this material was rubber-like, giving the drive mechanism some flexibility (Otherwise there would be no reason for the huge clearance between the two parts ?).
After thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing each part, I chose to use an RTV Silicone Adhesive to fill the Hub prior to re-assembling with the Shaft.
Once the adhesive has cured you can test your patience by attempting to get the Motor Housing to mate to the main Gear Housing. The tricky part here is holding the Carbon Brushes against their springs as you lower the Motor Shaft. In order to hold the Brush’s apart through an ever decreasing gap, you will need to use something that can hook the Brush connection wires, yet be no thicker than 1/8 inch. I used half of two Cotter Pins, but I should think that a Paper Clip or similar could be modified to achieve the same end.
Apart from the Carbon Brushes, the repair is very simple, and it could just save you the $170 cost for a new part.
**BELOW IS AN UPDATE ON THE MOTOR FIX By Andy Yim** (3/2000)
Headlamp Motor Fix (part 2)
First, identify which side is having trouble. They utilize the same repair kit, but the left side requires a bit more work (this has to do w/ the brush installation on the armiture - I'll explain this later).
The part is in kit form -- "for repairing
Ford/Chrysler power windows." I found them locally for $14.95/Kit.
this very slowly and carefully.
It will make sense if you think about it all
1. Jack up vehicle / Remove wheel / Remove plastic inner
fender. The inner fender is held by (3-4) 10mm bolts
in the arch of the well and (3) Phillips #2 screws on
the underside. The inner fender can now be pulled out.
2. Open hood / Remove (2) 10mm bolts behind the
headlight housing. Be sure to count the shims/washers
under each bolt because they will fall out. Doing
this will make adjustments a lot easier!
3. Remove 10mm bolt retaining connecting rod at the
light motor. (see pic at right - "Removal Top View")
4. Remove (2) 8mm bolts anchoring the motor unit from
inner fender. (see pic at right - "Motor Removal")
5. The motor is now free to be removed from the vehicle.
6. The motor should be disassembled on a towel - to
catch small pieces (small springs/bolts).
7. Remove the large bracket from the unit 8mm nut and
bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt on the drive arm. The arm
can be removed by clamping in a vise and taping the
center bolt with a small hammer.
8. Remove the (3) 1/4" bolts on the other side. Upon
removal of this cover - it'll reveal the mysterious
granules. Remove the (2) 1/4" bolts retaining the
housing for the Armiture (Don't lose the (2) springs
behind the brushes!!!) Upon removal of the Armiture
shaft -- the white plastic sprocket is free to be
removed from the housing.
9. Clean the parts with compressed air, insert the new
torque pins and re-lube the sprocket with grease. Insert
the sprocket back into the housing. (see pic at right - "Torque Pins")
10. Here's the tricky (hard) part. Get a strand of wire
- can be found in a stripped length of speaker wire
(see pic - "Torque Pins"). Holding the motor housing in
one hand / Insert the (2) springs in the slots near the
brushes. (see pic at right - "Brushes")
11. With the strand of wire / Make a loop around the
brush and insert the brush into the slot (see pic - "Brushes")
Do the same with the other side.
12. While pulling the brush back w/ the loop of
wire/Slide Armiture into the housing/When fully
inserted, remove wire by pulling on one side of the
loop/Do this on the other side/Attach (2) 1/4" bolts.
13. Position sprocket cover and install (3) 1/4"
bolts/Attach large bracket to motor housing.
14. Place motor back into vehicle and install all
bolts removed (just reverse the removal procedure).
**This is a perfect fix, so it should last another 4-5 years. The right side is easier -- you don't have to deal with the brushes -- essentially the same removal/installation.
**BELOW IS AN UPDATE ON THE MOTOR FIX By Myself, Doug** (10/2002)
Headlamp Motor Fix (part 3)
I have just rebuilt my RH headlamp motor, so I thought I'd add some more tips here. Read the info above, as well as Dean's write-up to figure out the job.
I used and would recommend Rodney's rebuild kit (see top of page)! Get the bushings and a gasket, and you may as well get 2 of each for both sides cause you know you will be fixing both sides eventually. The price is right and shipping is cheap, and best of all they ARE available NOW!
The actual rebuild fix could probably only take about 15 minutes if you wanted it to. The bushings are located in the lower half of the motor where the 3 screws hold the round piece in place!! You need not remove the drive motor (the other 2 screws) for the fix!
It was extremely helpful to have a can of compressed air on hand! It essentially blew out all the disintegrated bushing chunks for me perfectly! There was enough lube still in there that I didn't add any more.
FYI, you can (cause I did) remove the RH motor WITHOUT loosening the RH headlight pod. This is important cause I refinished that mechanism on my Elan earlier this year and it was a pisser getting it all lined up and tightened right when I was done--so if you don't loosen it you won't have to mess with it at all. There are only 3 bolts holding the RH motor in place. One is a bolt and nut which has 8mm ends and is accessible from the top in plain view (put socket on one side and box wrench on the other); the others are 8mm bolts accessible only from within the wheel well after removing the inner fender well. These attach to nuts which are integral to (welded to) the mounting unit so there's no nuts to drop and go fishing for!
You'll need to remove the 10mm nut from the motor's arm to remove the arm so you can get to the parts within. Be sure to remember which direction the arm points for later re-assembly. You DO NOT have to re-align the inner gear exactly as you can turn the top thumb screw to align it when done!